Water from outside
Gutter and drainage water intrusion in Maple Valley, WA
On a wooded lot in a wet valley, a surprising amount of what looks like a plumbing problem starts on the roof or in the yard. Here’s how to tell, and what to do about it.
We can help you work out whether the water is from the roof, the yard or a pipe.
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The problem
How roof and yard water ends up under the house
A typical Maple Valley roof collects thousands of gallons of water in a wet month. Gutters and downspouts are supposed to carry all of it away from the house. When they don’t, it goes straight into the soil beside the foundation, which is exactly where you least want it.
The wooded lots that make this valley pleasant make it harder. Conifers drop needles all year; deciduous trees drop leaves in autumn. Gutters clog, downspouts back up, and the drains at the bottom of downspouts fill with sediment. On a sloped lot, runoff from the uphill part of the yard or a neighbor’s property heads toward the house as well.
The water then does what water does: it finds the footing, the crawl space vents, the window wells and the lowest point under the house. The homeowner sees water in the crawl space or a damp basement wall and, reasonably, suspects a pipe.
Check it yourself
How to tell if it’s drainage and not plumbing
The best time to check is during steady rain. Put on a raincoat and walk around the house.
On the roof line
- Water spilling over the front of gutters instead of going down the downspout.
- Water pouring from a seam or corner where gutter sections join.
- Gutters sagging or pulling away from the fascia.
- Moss and needles visible above the gutter line.
At ground level
- Downspouts disconnected, crushed or ending right at the wall.
- Puddles along the foundation or around window wells.
- Soil or bark sloping toward the house instead of away.
- A downspout drain grate that’s bubbling back up instead of taking water.
Then look through the crawl space hatch. If water is coming in along the wall nearest an overflowing gutter or a short downspout, that’s a strong clue. If the meter is still with every fixture off, plumbing is unlikely. For the full comparison, see groundwater and seepage.
Tell us what you saw on your walk around and we’ll help you read it.
Talk Us Through What You SawLocal causes
The drainage problems we see most on wooded lots
Needle-packed gutters
Conifer needles mat together and hold water. A gutter can look fine from the ground and still be full.
Short or disconnected downspouts
A downspout that ends at the wall, or whose extension has been knocked off by a mower, dumps roof water right at the footing.
Silted downspout drains
Many houses route downspouts into buried pipes. Over years they fill with sediment and needles, and water backs up and soaks in next to the foundation.
Silted French and footing drains
Perforated drains around the foundation can clog with fine soil, especially where there’s no filter fabric. They stop carrying water away and hold it instead.
Grading that has settled
Soil beside a foundation settles over time. Landscaping beds and bark can build up so the ground slopes toward the house.
Uphill runoff
On a sloped lot, water from higher ground, driveways and neighboring properties flows toward the house in heavy rain.
Window wells
Wells without a working drain fill up and leak through the window frame into a daylight basement.
Roof valleys and moss
Valleys packed with needles and moss slow water down and let it work under shingles, adding to the load at the gutters below.
In the first hour
What to do when drainage water is getting in
Rule out plumbing
Turn everything off and watch the meter for ten minutes. If it’s still, a leak is unlikely.
Keep away from wet electrics
If water is near outlets or panels, do not enter. Call your utility and emergency services.
Redirect the worst downspout
If a downspout is dumping at the wall, a temporary extension or even a length of flexible pipe carrying it a few feet away can help straight away.
Leave the gutters until it’s safe
Cleaning gutters from a wet ladder in the rain isn’t worth it. Note which ones are overflowing and deal with them when it’s dry.
Clear window well drains you can reach
Scoop out needles and leaves at the bottom of an overflowing window well if you can do so from the ground.
Photograph during the rain
Pictures of overflowing gutters and ponding water are very useful later, because the problem isn’t visible on a dry day.
Step by step
How drainage intrusion damage is handled
Finding the path
The crew confirms where water is entering from inside, and matches it to what’s happening outside: gutters, downspouts, grade or drains.
Removing water
Standing water is pumped from the crawl space or extracted from the basement.
Removing wet materials
Wet insulation, vapor barrier, carpet pad or lower drywall are taken out where needed.
Drying
Dehumidifiers and air movers dry framing, walls and slab. The crew will say if water is still arriving.
Describing the outside fixes
They’ll explain what they saw so you can arrange gutter, downspout or drainage work with the right contractor.
Putting it back
Once the space is dry and the water is diverted, barrier, insulation and finishes are replaced.
Pricing for drying and restoration is explained before anything starts.
Get the Price Before We StartLonger-term fixes
What usually solves it
Most drainage intrusion is fixed outside the house, and often more cheaply than people expect.
Gutter cleaning and guards
Cleaning at least twice a year under heavy tree cover, and guards suited to conifer needles, keep gutters flowing.
Downspout extensions
Carrying each downspout several feet from the foundation, or into a working drain line, is often the single most effective fix.
Clearing or replacing drain lines
Jetting silted downspout drains, or replacing crushed ones, restores flow away from the house.
Regrading
Rebuilding the soil so it slopes away from the foundation for the first several feet.
Curtain drains
A gravel trench on the uphill side that catches runoff and shallow groundwater before it reaches the house.
Window well covers and drains
Covers keep needles out; a clear drain at the bottom lets rain get away.
Time and cost
What affects time and cost
- How much water got in and how long it’s been happening.
- Insulation, barrier and finishes that need replacing.
- Whether water is still arriving during drying.
- Crawl space access or basement finishes.
- The season and the temperature of the space.
- Travel and access to the property.
Gutter, downspout and drainage work is done by other trades and priced separately. The restoration crew handles removal, drying and interior repairs, with pricing up front.
Afterward
What happens afterward
After the outside fixes, walk the house during the next heavy rain and look again. It’s the quickest way to confirm the water is going where it should. Look through the crawl space hatch a day or two later as well.
The crew can document what they found.
Crews familiar with wooded lots and the drainage problems that come with them.
Speak With Someone LocalRelated services
Questions
Gutter and drainage questions
Walk the house in steady rain. If gutters are overflowing or a downspout is discharging at the wall near where water appears in the crawl space, that’s a strong sign. A still water meter makes a plumbing leak unlikely.
Under conifers, at least twice a year is common, often in late autumn and again in late winter or spring. Some lots need more.
Several feet is a common guideline, and further on a slope or where the soil drains slowly. Discharging into a working drain line that leads well away from the house is also common.
A gravel-filled trench with a perforated pipe that collects water from the soil and carries it away. Around foundations, similar drains are often called footing or perimeter drains.
Yes. Fine soil can wash into the gravel and pipe over time, especially without filter fabric, and roots or crushing can block the pipe. A clogged drain holds water instead of removing it.
Surface drainage problems show during and shortly after rain, near gutters and downspouts. Groundwater lags behind the rain and can persist for days. Many houses have both. See the groundwater guide.
The restoration crew handles water removal, drying and interior repairs. Gutter, downspout and drainage work is done by other trades; the crew can describe what they saw so you can brief them.
It can be dried, but it may get wet again with the next heavy rain. The crew will be honest about that and help you decide on timing.
Usually, yes. Before-and-after photos and the drying log show where the water went and when materials reached normal levels. The crew can send them to you when the job is finished.
Sometimes. Clogged gutters and short downspouts are a common cause, but groundwater, grading and footing drains can also play a part. A crew can check where the water is getting in and dry what’s already wet.
Think the water is coming from outside?
Call and we’ll help you work it out, then connect you with a local crew to dry the house while the outside gets sorted.
Plain advice on what you’re seeing, with no pressure.
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